Recently someone commissioned me to make a set of costumes for their show, they sent me the designs and some basic measurements and I made the toile up ready for the fitting. To save money they asked to do the first fitting without me and send photos of any changes that they needed which I wasn’t happy with but I reluctantly agreed to. What surprised me was even though I had explained that a first fitting is a ‘working document’ they were amazed that the costume didn’t fit perfectly the first time. They told me it was a bit too long and that it was too tight around the back for the dance that was being done in the costume which are normal concerns to have on a first fitting, I hadn’t been given an exact length (just ‘below the knee’) and I hadn’t met the dancers or seen the dance so I didn’t know what would be required of the garments. They decided to hire someone else to make the rest of the costumes as they weren’t happy with my work and the costumes were not usable, they also refused to pay me.
To me this is ridiculous, I have been creating costumes for over 10 years and NEVER has a toile fit the first time, the point of a first fitting is to check the designer likes the piece in person, to see if the fabric choices work, to make sure the costume can accommodate the actor’s movements and a whole host of other questions to be answered. It is why we have a first fitting and why I should have put my foot down to be in the room to defend my work. I was really angry to start with but it occurred to me that these people have never had a costume made before, they have bought off the peg and things have worked out. So whilst I chase them for payment with BECTU, I thought I could also write an article of what to expect if you are commissioning a costume for the first time or if you are making for a new client you can send this to help them know what to expect.
- Unless we are very pushed for time, most costume makers don’t make the mockup out of the final fabric
Everyone works differently and I can’t speak for all makers, but personally I don’t like to make anything in the top fabric until the design and patterns are finalised. Top fabric is often very expensive/ in limited supply so it makes sense to make the initial costume out of a cheap calico or stretch fabric to get the shape. You can also cut into this in the fitting and draw on it to get the desired shapes. This may make it slightly more difficult to visualise the finished piece if you are not used to it but trust the process, making out of a cheaper fabric to begin with will save you money and give you more flexibility on the final piece.
- A costume being made from a drawing is an interpretation
Even if you have the most perfect costume drawing in the world, a 3D costume will be an interpretation of this. Different makers will make things in slightly different ways, fabric will hang differently and actors’ body shapes are very rarely the same as the costume drawing. Be as clear as you can with the design but remember, this is what the fittings are for… it may take an extra go to get everything exactly as you want it but that’s ok, you also might discover that a neckline isn’t as flattering as you hoped or that a different length hem would work for the movement of the piece. Work with your costume maker, together you can create something brilliant
- Always have your costume maker available for the fitting
Fittings are an important part of the process and often a company will try to do the fitting on their own to save paying the maker. This is a mistake, the maker will know where to pin the costume to make it fit better and will be a lot more help in the room checking the costume than you having to spend an hour on the phone later trying to explain that the waist didn’t sit right but you aren’t sure if the problem was the width of the waistband or at the shoulder. Your maker understands how the costume has been put together and what to change to get the shape and style that you want.
- It will cost a lot of money
I know no one wants to hear this but good work costs money, and good makers charge their worth. If you want a bespoke costume then expect it to be similar to getting a suit tailored or a wedding dress made, it will be worth the money and good costumes can make or break a piece, but set your budget accordingly. Also be aware that most makers charge half up front to cover materials, haberdashery and travel costs. It is also in everyone’s best interest to have a contract in place so that both parties know what to expect.
If you want a cheaper costume you can look at buying something off the peg in a shop or look for something second hand that can be adapted, a costume maker can often work with you on these adaptations if you need the help.
- Enjoy it!
How often do you get to draw something on paper and someone creates that item in real life? Having a costume created is an amazing thing and it should be appreciated.
